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26.03.2024

THE BEST RESORTS: surfing

The content of the article:

  • Surfing as a way of life 
  • The effect of wave energy on the human body
  • Selection criteria: where to surf for beginners and advanced
  • Kuta Beach in Bali 
  • Mentawai Islands
  • Osgor — surfing-the capital of Europe 
  • Surfing on the beaches of Spain
  • Ericeira — Portuguese surfer's corner


"Catch a wave!" is exactly the motto surfers travel with. And if diving is important, then waves of different scales are important for swimming with a board. And today our heading "The best resorts" is back, the previous ones can be viewed at the links Diving and the best resorts in the world
       

Speaking of surfing, it should be noted that first of all it is an active water sport. It arose, however, quite a long time ago, when the indigenous inhabitants of the Pacific Ocean came up with the idea of swimming on a wooden board. Hawaii has become the center and historical place of development of this sport, it is about them that is mentioned in many literary sources. Even Mark Twain himself noted this in his book "Light", where he described how the indigenous people "swim on the waves." In the 20th century, another writer, Jack London, became interested in surfing and wrote an article about it. This is how surfing was learned on the American continent. Later, Duke Kahanamoku introduced surfing to the whole world due to the fact that while traveling, he showed the inhabitants of the globe how to use a board to glide through the waves.

From the outside, it is quite interesting to watch surfers, and few people think about the benefits of such a swim. In fact, it is possible to note a number of factors that positively affect the physical development of a person:

  • Cardio training: high physical activity strengthens blood vessels and supplies them with oxygen, strengthening the cardiovascular system; 
  • Stress relief: you choose how you will swim on the waves. Sometimes, to raise your mood and tone, you can actively and quickly glide through the water, and sometimes you can just swim, forgetting about the problems and enjoying how the waves rule you;
  • Muscle flexibility and stretching: perhaps only yoga enthusiasts can surpass surfers in this matter, because to keep your balance on the board, you turn many times and in different positions, thereby making the body quite flexible;
  • Muscle strengthening: pay attention to the toned bodies of surfers. And all this is because during the slide, all muscle groups are actively involved in the work of the athlete: chest, back, arms, legs. This is a fitness workout on one simulator.
  • Psychological attitude: you can't get results quickly in surfing. It is necessary to work long and hard, overcoming failures, which trains willpower and the desire to set new goals. Each new wave is your work on yourself. 

 

Surfers also pay a lot of attention to the place for their activities. Most of them have their own popular countries, beaches, where they do what they love. But we want to note that where it is good for a professional, it can be dangerous for a beginner. Experienced athletes recommend beginners to choose the right places: 

  • With a small number of people, so as not to harm yourself or others.
  • With a sandy bottom, it is safer and psychologically calmer.
  • A place with small, soft waves. You will still have time to ride on a huge wave. Hone your skills gradually. 
  • Explore the place where you are going to start surfing. All surf spots work in different ways. It is important to take into account the tides.
  • Consult with professionals. They will always help and tell you in which places, in which period it is most comfortable to start.

 

And today we will tell you about some beaches that surfers from all over the world have come to love. Of course, it is impossible to cover everything in one article, so we will introduce you to the best surfing spots from our reliable partners.


BALI — Many beaches in Indonesia are famous for their surfing spots. But Bali is considered one of the best places for this sport. Most surfers say that going to Bali and not getting on the board is blasphemy. There are enough beaches on the island for surfing professionals, and if you are just starting out, go to Kuta — the perfect place for beginners. The beach is famous for its smooth sandy bottom without rocks, rocky debris. High and powerful waves are not common here, basically all the waves are quite soft and smooth, with a lot of peaks and good foam. There are a large number of surf schools on the beaches of Kuta. There are also Russian-speaking instructors. The skiing season is open all year round, but the best time is from May to October. There are many hotels with different price ranges around the perimeter of Kuta: from affordable to premium class. There are apartments owned by our compatriots. We think they can provide you with rental housing for the period of your studies. The easiest way to get to Kuta from Ngurah Rai Airport is to fly on a package tour, thanks to which you will be taken directly from the airport to your place of residence on the island.

One of the most popular places for surfers is the Mentawai Islands (Indonesia), located southwest of Sumatra. Thanks to the quality and quantity of waves, many people, both professionals and beginners, have discovered this place. It is significant that many surfing films are shot on these islands, as the variety of waves is amazing. Surfers identify three main areas on the islands: in the north there are Playgrounds, characterized by a large number of gaps; the Sipura area, considered the central island, where there are more complex waves and regular barrels (not for beginners); and the southernmost area near Pagai Island is characterized by an abundance of waves of “Macaroni”, which are also called cheerful. Don't worry that it will be difficult for you on the islands. Everything is thought out here for active recreation: transfers, meals, surfer services and much more. The main surfing season on the islands is considered to be the period from March to October, usually this time without tropical rains, also called the “dry season". But in fact, the waves are on the Mentawai all year round. For beginners, you can safely go on a trip from December to February, when the waves are smaller and softer. You can get to the islands from Padang Airport. Direct flights are available from various airports in Indonesia, so plan your route in advance.

Novice surfers are not familiar with surf beaches on the European continent. But France is considered to be the country where one of the most serious surfing federations is located, which trains athletes for competitions in this sport. And the surf capital of European surfing can be called Hossegor - Osgor in the Landes. Every year at the end of September, a stage of the WSL World Championship is held on the Osgor coast. They ride here at any time of the year, but in winter the water temperature drops to +13, so this time is definitely not suitable for beginners. The largest wave on the French coast reaches 6 m, the smallest — 1.5 m. The surfing season on the coast lasts from April to November. However, summer waves are more suitable for beginners, but the middle of autumn is the time for professionals. Osgor is also famous for the abundance of surf shops, where, in addition to equipment, exclusive boards, you can also buy special clothes. 

Another place on the European continent for surfing can be considered the beaches of Spain, which overlook the Atlantic Ocean, the Mediterranean Sea and the Cantabrian Sea. This scale of the water element, of course, attracts surfers from all over the world. Cadiz in the south of Spain and the Basque Country in the north are considered the most popular. There are 2 beaches in Cadiz: Caños de Meca — more suitable for beginners, since, despite the presence of large waves, they are more smooth and smooth; Playa de Los Lances beach is suitable for more experienced board swimmers. In the north of the country, in the Basque region, Biarritz has remained one of the most popular beaches for many years, where famous surf spots have been explored far and wide. If you are looking for new locations, then pay attention to Zarautz Beach, located a few km from San Sebastian, one of the largest beaches in the area. Zarautz is suitable for both amateur and professional surfers. 
On the northern coast of Spain there is another beautiful region — Asturias, where the blue flag beach is located: Playa de la Grande. Surfers sometimes hold competitions here, and summer is considered the best season on this beach, since there is no rainy weather.  

Ericeira is the only one in Europe and the second (among ten) globally recognized surf reserve, which is part of the Lisbon District, Portugal. The status of the reserve is given for a reason. First of all, these are the regions that have made a great contribution to the development of surfing. On these beaches, nature should have a pristine appearance, therefore, any buildings are prohibited in the reserve area in order not to disturb the coastal landscape and preserve the fauna in any case. Since the reserve is the main attraction of the city, surf schools, cafes, and shops are located around it — the direction of which is to gather as many fans of this sport as possible. Unlike the warm waters of Bali, the water temperature on the Portuguese coasts in September-October is about 18 degrees, so this time is more suitable for experienced surfers. But the summer period is a great time for those who want to start exploring the interesting world of surfing. 

As we noted earlier, the article highlights only a few countries and beaches that are popular with surfers. You may also want to share your "favorite surfing spots", or you may want to get advice on these countries.

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